SUAGU Expeditions - Island Peak 09

Everest Base Camp (5380m) Kalapatthar (5545m)Island Peak (6189m)

2009-04-29T21:21:00.000-07:00

The SUAGU team has been climbing rainforest mountains mostly in East and West Malaysia. It was only in 2007 that Yew Hoong and I (Lester) had our first encounter with ice/snow mountaineering when we participated on an international (Australia, Malaysia, Korea, Taiwan, Hong Kong, Nepal and Singapore) Scout expedition to climb Lord Baden Powell Peak (BP Peak) in Nepal's Langtang Region. It was to commemorate 100 years of Worldwide Scouting.

Both Yew Hoong and I did not make it to the summit of BP Peak due to inexperience, lack of technical skill, fatigue and Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). But we came back with new skills, knowledge and motivation to climb another ice-capped mountain.

Yew Hoong chose Island Peak (6189m), also known as Imja Tse by the locals of Everest Region, to be SUAGU team's alpine mountain target. On 21st April 2009, 4 SUAGU members summitted.

The SUAGU Team:

Our Photos:
http://picasaweb.google.com/suagu.islandpeak09/

Our climbing stories:
Departure Day: Singapore Changi Airport
Day 0: 2nd day in Kathmandu
Day 1: Lukla to Phadking
Day 2: Phakding to Namche Bazar
Day 3: Acclimazation Namche Bazar
Day 4: Namche Bazar to Tengboche
Day 5: Tengboche to Pheriche
Day 6: Pheriche to Lobuche
Day 7: Lobuche to Gorak Shep to Everest Base Camp (EBC)
Day 8: Acclimatization Climb to Kalapatthar then to Dingboche
Day 9: Dingboche to Chhukhung
Day 10: Ice Climbing Course at Chhukhung (Part 1)
Day 11: Ice Climbing Course at Chhukhung (Part 2)
Day 12: Chhukhung to Island Peak Base Camp
Day 13: Summit Attack
Day 14: Island Peak Base Camp to Chhukhung to Pangboche
Day 15: Pangboche to Namche Bazar
Day 16: Namche Bazar to Lukla
Day 17: Back to Kathmandu
Day 18: Rest & Relax - Stupa Visits

Day 17: Back to Kathmandu

2009-04-25T23:14:00.000-07:00

Log No: 25-04-09
Not recorded

At Lukla Tenzing-Hillary Airport...Sonam gave us each a Kata scarf before we left. He was staying behind to prepare for the next trip while Furba accompanied us back Kathmandu

Index Page

Day 16: Namche Bazar to Lukla

2009-04-24T23:13:00.000-07:00

Log No: 24-04-09
Trekking Distance: 14.5km
Trekking Time: 4hrs 15mins

Timing:
0825hrs - Left Namche Bazar's (3425m) Himalayan Lodge
1030hrs - Arrived at Sagarmatha National Park office
1215hrs - Arrived at Phakding's (2610m) Namaste Lodge for lunch
1345hrs - Left Phakding
1545hrs - Arrived at Lukla's (2840m)
1550hrs:1610hrs - Arrived at Lukla's North Face Resort

We started the day with a group photo by the Stupa in Namche.

Group photo

The trek out to Lukla required us to cross several bridges and traverse several up and down slopes, though we were generally descending.

After lunch at Phakding, the trek up Lukla was a challenge. The trail was filled with many trekkers including a large group of Australians and Germans. We had to rush ahead to stay away from the Australian team (some were rather noisy and rowdy) to get some peace and quiet on the way out.

Our heroes..

At 3.30pm, we arrived at the last stairway leading up to the entrance gate. We asked Furba, who was ill that day, how long would we need to reach the gate and he replied "15mins". Yew Choon, Agnes and I immediately went ahead, fearing that the rowdy trekkers would catch up with us. True enough we stepped into Lukla at 3.45pm after an exhausting stairway climb. We did a "Woosh" before heading towards our lodge. Yew Hoong and Kin Peng followed shortly.

Finally arriving at the entrance gate of Lukla

Having Latte at the fake Starbucks in Lukla

That night, we had a celebration dinner. For the first time everyone including Furba, Sonam and our 2 porters sat down and had dinner with us (usually we ate separately because the lodge that we stayed in will provide them with sherpa food at around 8.30-9.00pm). While waiting for our meals to be served, Yew Hoong handed out the trekking tips to our guides and porters.

We had a sumptuous dinner of chicken sizzler with fries. Then, Furba came out with a pot of local alcohol mix called the Mustang Coffee, which tasted a little like Baileys. Damn it was strong! We also opened several bottles of Everest Premium Beer offering much to one of our porter who enjoys drinking. After dinner, music suddenly blasted throughout the dining area and the next thing we knew, everyone was out of their seat dancing in celebration! Of course we joined in the fun too! Each time we got tired and wanting to stop, Sonam would pull us out of our seat and force us to dance. It was freaking tiring (though fun) to dance at 2840m!!

Party time....

After 1.5hrs later, we retired for a hot shower before climbing into bed. Yew Choon, who was in the drinking mood, came back into the room with 3 cans of Heineken - for himself, Yew Hoong and me. I opened one can, took a mouthful and started munching on the Pringles Chips. The next thing I knew, my head was spinning and I wanted to sleep. I reckoned it was due to the high altitude dancing and drinking that made me wasted.

In my semi-conscious state I think Yew Hoong did not drink and went back to his room. On the other hand, Yew Choon downed 2 cans on his own. While he was drinking, I was trying desperately to sleep but my heart was pumping way too quickly that I felt it was going to pop out. It felt like hell. I asked Yew Choon to measure my pulse rate and prepare for CPR. He said "Sure, I will get Yew Hoong to do it" -.- If I had any strength, I would have whipped out my ice-axe to clobber him! My heart was beating 120/min. My breathing increased to a pant. Yew Choon looked at me and happily continued his drinking. He knew very well how I felt, having experienced this kind of feeling himself.

I slept soundly till the next day.

Index Page / Day 17: Back to Kathmandu

Day 15: Pangboche to Namche Bazar

2009-04-23T23:13:00.000-07:00

Log No: 23-04-09
Trekking Distance: 11.2km
Trekking Time: 4hrs 15mins

Timing:
0810hrs - Left Pangboche's (3930m)
1030hrs - Arrived at Phunki Tenga (3250m) for lunch
1200hrs - Left Phunki Tenga
1415hrs - Arrived at Namche Bazar

Amadablam taken from different places

On the way to Namche Bazar

Trekking towards Tengboche (as shown in the photo)

Photo at Tengboche

Agnes with a mysterious climber..oh that's Yew Choon

Somehow we looked like child-kidnappers!

Celebration at a bar in Namche Bazar

Index Page / Day 16: Namche Bazar to Lukla

Day 14: Island Peak Base Camp to Chhukhung to Pangboche

2009-04-22T23:12:00.000-07:00

Log No: 22-04-09
Trekking Distance: 10.3km
Trekking Time: 5hrs 45mins

Timing:
0630hrs - Left Base Camp (4970m)
0900hrs - Arrived at Chhukhung's (4730m) Chhukhung Resort for breakfast 1030hrs - Left Chhukhung
1200hrs - Arrived at Dingboche's (4410m) Khumbu Resort for lunch
1330hrs - Left Dingboche
1515hrs - Arrived at Pangboche's (3930m) Om Kailesh Hotel

Heading back to Chhukhung

Heading back to Chhukhung...and finally back at our lodge!

Group photo with all our Porters, Trekking and Climbing Guides

Amadablam peeking behing the clouds...our porter Qilin (small sized but great strength) with our heavy duffle

Our Pangboche guesthouse - Om Kailesh

Our room in Pangboche...Yew Hoong the resident gambler

Having Everest Beer for celebration!

Index Page / Day 15: Pangboche to Namche Bazar

Day 13: Summit Attack

2009-04-21T23:11:00.000-07:00

Log No: 21-04-09
Trekking Distance: 6km
Trekking Time: 12hrs 45mins

Timing:
0215hrs - Left Island Peak Base Camp (4970m)
0415hrs - Arrived close to High Camp (5600m)
0630hrs - Arrived at Crampon-Point
0700hrs - Left Crampon-Point
0900hrs - Started climbing the ice-wall
1030hrs - Lester arrived on Island Peak summit (6189m)
1038hrs - Yew Hoong arrived on Island Peak summit
1054hrs - Kin Peng arrived on Island Peak summit
1100hrs - Yew Choon arrived on Island Peak summit
1130hrs - Left summit
1400hrs - Arrive at Crampon-point
1600hrs - Arrive at Island Peak Base Camp

We tried very hard to sleep at such high altitude. It wasn't easy because breathing was difficult given the low oxygen rate of about 53% at 5000m. Also, our hearts were pumping faster to get more oxygen around our bodies. I woke several times and so did Yew Choon. The worst hit was Agnes who did not sleep at all (maybe just for a very short moment in between).

We woke at around 1.00am and at about 1.15am hot tea was served into our tents followed by oatmeal breakfast. Yew Choon had 2 servings while I tried hard to gobble down one bowl. I had prepared an oreo-flavoured PowerBar (energy bar) as part of my breakfast, only to find that it had hardened from the cold.

After we asked for "tatopani", which was hot water in Nepali, we geared up for the climb. The temperature was low but still bearable for the moment.

At 2.15am, ND signaled for the start of the climb. Sonam was coming along with us to help carry all our plastic boots (we were sooo glad we did not have to carry them on our own otherwise our speed would have dropped drastically).

From base camp to the summit, the ascent is approximately 1200m. That was way beyond the recommended increase in altitude, making us very susceptible to AMS. We did not have a choice. With our headlamps pointing on the ground, we "blindly" followed the person in front, struggling to put our feet ahead of the other while regulating our breathing. We were climbing on loose gravel and sand making it slippery and dangerous. Any carelessness would send us sliding down. There were trails of lights above us and we knew that there were people ahead of us. We weren't thinking of chasing up with them.

Agnes was trailing behind very badly and at some point we had to wait for more than 15-20mins for her to catch up. That was a long waiting time especially when it was cold. Kin Peng had wanted to continue to climb alone to keep warm. But the terrain was steep and the trail was confusing so ND did not let Kin Peng go unsupervised. While waiting, she started shivering and Sonam came along to help rubbed her hands and hugged her to keep her warm till Agnes arrived. Kamel, the Israeli climber offered a heatpad that Kin Peng willingly accepted. I was also feeling very cold and could not feel my numbed toes. Afraid that I would have frostbite, I added on another pair of merino wool socks but it did not help much. There was nothing else I could do.

When we were near the High Camp, Yew Hoong and ND had a small chat. They wanted to ask Agnes to turn around and head back to Base Camp. Based on their assessment, Agnes was far too slow and would not have made it to the summit. Waiting for her would only slow the team down and jeopardize everybody's chances. Yew Hoong made the call.

From how I looked at it, ND and PK had to be with the main team because they were each going to lead a sub-group on the ice after the crampon-point. Hence, they could not accompany Agnes on the slow climb. Sonam, on the other hand, was our porter carrying our plastic boots and crampons. So there was also no way he could be lagging behind. The only one left was the yak-man. But I guess ND wasn't confident with his experience on the trail to the crampon-point and so did not suggest that he continue to climb slowly with Agnes.

So in the end, Agnes quietly accepted the order. All I heard was "Orh okay...ni men jia you!" (loosely translated as "keep it up!"). It was sad that Agnes could not be with us to the summit. After asking her to take care on the way down, we re-focused and continued our way up the steep mountain hoping to reach crampon-point by first-light.

According to Agnes, she knew her chances of reaching the summit was slim right from the moment she stepped out of her tent in the morning. She did not have the much needed rest the night before. While she was feeling well without any signs or symptoms of AMS, she just couldn't get her feet to move fast enough. I knew she was disappointed but the mountain will always be there. There will be future opportunities. Of all people, me and Yew Hoong knew that best. In 2005, we trekked up BP Peak too slowly and ran into the turn-around time. We did not summit then.

Just above the High Camp area the terrain changed, becoming very rocky and steep to a point our walking sticks weren't very useful. Then, the terrain changed again and we found ourselves trod perilously on the edge of gentle up slopes that had sandy slippery trails.

Morning view

By 6.30am, we arrived at the crampon-point. In front of us was a German team who already had their crampons on and taking their first bite into the ice and snow. We strapped on our harness, checked our carabiners and jumars, wore our plastic boots, gaiters, and finally our crampons. Once we were ready, we picked up our ice-axe and we ready for some action.

ND was the leading climber for my team, followed by Kamel the Israeli climber, Yew Hoong and lastly myself. PK led Kin Peng and Yew Choon. Once roped on to each other, we headed into the ice. It was tough walking when roped on together because we sort of had different pace. Kamel was super fast while me and Yew Hoong were slower. ND and Kamel had to compromise to our speed.

After a walking on ice for while, we arrived at the 2 infamous crevasses (about 1.2m wide each) that we had heard much about when we were at Namche Bazar. A Taiwanese climber told us that his team failed to make it to the summit as they could not cross the crevasses. However, it wasn't clear if they had attempted Island Peak from the same side as us. According to ND, there weren't much snow last year and hence the crevasses opened this season - something uncommon.

Yew Hoong preparing to jump the crevasse ... Yew Choon touching down on the first jump

At sea level, leaping across 1.2m would have been effortless. But strapped with our heavy equipment and boots, we wondered if we would end up jumping into the crevasse instead of across it. ND leaped twice and crossed the 2 crevasses easily. He secured himself to the anchor and signaled for Kamel to jump. Once over, Kamel was also anchored on and then Yew Hoong was made to leap. In perfect hand-axe position, Yew Hoong made the first leap. Then a big shock came along. His ice-axe slipped out of his hand and dropped into the 2nd crevasse. I screamed angrily at him asking why he did not secure it to his hand. He said he did not it wasn't tight enough. He thought his summit attempt ended when ND gave indications that there wasn't any spare ice-axe. A climber without an ice-axe is as good as a handicap (in some cases as good as dead).

After I leaped over, ND went into some discussions with the German's team climbing sherpa. One of the German's team sherpa was heading down to recover 2 sets of fixed ropes that they had accidentally dropped into the crevasse. ND asked him to help retrieve Yew Hoong's ice-axe. For 45mins, we waited for the sherpa to descend down and back up. Meanwhile, Kin Peng and Yew Choon cleared the crevasses and proceeded on.

After the crevasses, we continued trekking on the glacier. At some point, Yew Hoong was calling for ND to slow down. But it wasn't clear why ND continued to move on each time Yew Hoong called for a stop. Since we were roped on, Yew Hoong had to drag his feet along. We finally reached a flat area that led up to the infamous ice-wall of Island Peak. The ice-wall is the most difficult part of the climb up Island Peak. It stood approximately 100m high with some parts close to 75 degrees steep.

Our team approaching to the 100m ice-wall

Yew Hoong was visibly exhausted from the climb and decided to leave his bag, helmet and ice-axe just before the ice-wall. We continued on towards the ice-wall and roped off shortly. By then, Kin Peng and Yew Choon had reached the ice-wall and had also left their belongings there.

In the order - me, Yew Hoong, Kin Peng and Yew Choon - we jumared our way up on the fixed rope. It was a @#$%^* long way up and we were tired. Yew Hoong was screaming irritatingly, "Who is the one who asked me to climb this mountain one!!!...All Lester's fault!!". I felt like removing my crampons and dropping it on him! He was the one who got us into climbing..not the other way round! After a while, I reckoned that he was trying to distract himself from the exhaustion and so I mentally blocked out his screams.

The heat from the sun was getting into us. We kept our sunglasses on to prevent snow blindness. Every now and then, I had to rub some ice on my neck to keep myself cool.

Reaching the top of the ice wall. The little dots at the top right region are people below the ice wall.

After 45mins of climbing the ice-wall, I finally saw PK smiling broadly at me. At the top of the ice wall, I took some photos and proceeded on to the next anchor point. All these while, we had our safety line on the fixed rope in case we get blown off the mountain. Yew Hoong wasn't far behind me and so I decided to eat one sneaker bar and swallowed down one pack of PowerGel to give myself the last boost of energy needed to climb up the last slope. When Yew Hoong came along, I threw him a pack of PowerGel and headed up the final slope.

Yew Hoong happily receive the PowerGel from me

I asked PK if jumaring was required. He said that it was not necessary and a safety line was sufficient. I looked at the slope again and concluded that I was not PK and jumaring up was the safer way. Once up the slope, I had to traverse on the edge of the snowy slope towards the summit. I have seen this view in photos many times and if there was anything that scared me, this was it. Thankfully I had my ice-axe with me and I slowly progressed on a very narrow ice path leading to the summit.

I was finally standing on Island Peak! 6189m high. ND had caught up with me to set up more anchor points in anticipation of the large crowd ascending. Yew Hoong followed closely behind and summitted at 10.38am. After admiring the view, Yew Hoong happily told me that Kin Peng was coming up soon. She stepped on the summit at 10.54am. The more pleasant surprise came when Yew Choon's head popped up above the summit snow-cap at 11.00am. Everyone made it!!!!

Summit photo

Now that we were on the summit, we were only half-way. The other half was to make sure that we survived the journey back down to Base Camp. Climbing up was tough, climbing down was equally tough! Each step down the summit slope was treated with much care. Any mistake will send us sliding all the way down.

Steep descend on a narrow path. Thankfully there weren't any strong wind

After the long abseil down the ice-wall, we slowly headed towards the crevasses and routinely leaped over them. The snow was already becoming soft and new small crevasses were starting to show signs of opening after being exposed to the morning and afternoon sun. Luckily, the ice was still decently hard enough for us to trek out.

At the crampon-point, Sonam was there to greet us. A familiar face. We swapped back into our tracking boots and headed down to Base Camp. Once out of the ice area, Yew Hoong started regaining his energy and was "flying" down the mountain at great speed. On the other hand, I ran out of steam, no longer feeling any adrenaline racing through me. I proceeded down very slowly and carefully, making sure I did not slip down the sandy path.

Finally, after over 12 hrs of trekking and climbing, we reached safely into the arms of Base Camp with Agnes there to hug and welcome us with our PowerBar Recovery Drink. We decided not to head back to Chhukhung given that everyone had tired out and stayed one more night at Base Camp. That night was particularly cold. My bag, which was inside the tent (touching the side of the tent) had frost over it the next morning.

Index Page / Day 14: Island Peak Base Camp to Chhukhung to Pangboche

Day 12: Chhukhung to Island Peak Base Camp

2009-04-20T22:22:00.000-07:00

Log No: 20-04-09
Trekking Distance: 6.1km
Trekking Time: 3hrs

Timing:
1200hrs - Left Chhukhung Resort (4730m)
1430hrs:1500hrs - Arrived at Island Peak Base Camp (4970m)

It was finally time for Yew Hoong, Yew Choon, Agnes, Kin Peng and I to head off for Island Peak Base Camp.

We took the morning to pack our duffle and daypack. ND had 3 yaks but they were only meant for carrying food and our climbing equipment. So we were shocked when we were told that we had to carry our own duffles. I made a mental note to scream at Mahendra (the boss of Equator Expeditions) when I see him! Thankfully we managed to arrange with Furba to get Sonam to carry 2 duffle bags up to base camp for us. We were definitely going to pay him for this much needed service. We quickly repacked and headed off.

The entire trek was generally Nepali-flat, with the first part and midway being steeper. One-third way, Kin Peng and I broke away from the group and went ahead first. Without the pressure of having to keep up with the group (and Yew Hoong), we moved relatively fast and in a less stressful manner. By 1.30pm, Yew Hoong caught up with us. At 2.05pm, we saw a sole wooden hut awkwardly located in the "middle-of-nowhere". Yew Hoong said that it was base camp. I replied with an "ohh"..but I didn't quite believe. True enough it wasn't. Base camp was sprawled 20mins beyond a rocky patch ahead of us.

Yew Hoong arriving Island Peak Base Camp

By 3.00pm plus, snow flakes started to fall and the temperature dropped further. We quickly helped ND and Sonam set up the our tents. Midway PK and our yak-man arrived with our yaks and we hailed with joy (for no apparent reasons..it wasn't like we were going to slaughter the yaks for dinner). Maybe we were just too happy to be at Base Camp. We hid in our 2-men tents for a period of time to keep warm and at the same time to pack our daypacks for tomorrow's summit attack.

The tent-sharing grouping for the night was as follow:
- Yew Choon and Lester
- Agnes and Kin Peng
- Yew Hoong and Kamel (Israeli Climber)

Yew Choon and Kin Peng standing at the kitchen tent watching our yak roam

Helping with the pitching of our 2-men tents

Yew Choon and I comfortably in our tent

Meanwhile, ND and PK were preparing dinner - cabbage, potato and carrot curry rice - in the kitchen tent. Dinner was to be served in our sleeping tents and so we decided to huddle into Agnes/Kin's tent and had a warm dinner together.

PK cooking with a pressure pot

By 7.00pm, the skies had turned dark. Some of us made a last port of call at the toilet before retiring for a super early night. No one wanted to wake in the middle of the cold cold night to pee, though we had our pee bottles with us.

Did not expect to find toilets at Base Camp...

Talking about toilets, the ones at Island Peak Base Camp were most interesting. Usually toilets at the guesthouses or along the trek would have a bin for people to throw used toilet papers (we were not allowed to throw toilet papers into the "shit hole" for various reasons). But at Base Camp there were no such bins and so the used toilet papers piled in huge quantity along the inside of the cubicle. Thankfully the stench was bearable (maybe due to blocked nose). There were also traces of burnt toilet papers. It wasn't clear if the burning was to clear the toilet paper (which is a stupid idea because the entire floorboard of the toilet is wooden) or to have the smoke mask the shitty smell.

Slightly past 7.00pm, we were all in our tent trying to get the much need sleep before waking at 1.00am for the summit attack.

Index Page / Day 13: Summit Attack

Day 11: Ice Climbing Course @ Chhukhung (Part 2)

2009-04-19T23:10:00.000-07:00

Log No: 19-04-09
Not recorded

Timing:
0815hrs - Left Chhukhung Resort
1045hrs - Arrived at Ice Wall for training
1500hrs - Left Ice Wall
1700hrs - Arrived back at Chhukhung Resort

The trek to the ice wall for the training was a long and tiring compared to the day before. We had to carry our plastic boots and climbing equipment in our own daypack, making it the heaviest load we had carried since we started from day one - blame it on our over-reliance on porters. Although we had carried even heavier loads when we trekked in Malaysia, the altitude and cold in Nepal just made everything weigh heavier than they actually were.

At some point, I had difficulty breathing and had to gasp for air. We stopped regularly for the slower ones to catch up. It was stressful because ND and PK had said that they would be assessing our capabilities during the 2 days of training to determine if we qualified to climb Island Peak. Quietly, Yew Hoong and Kin Peng had private conversations with ND regarding our performance. ND said that we trekked too slowly (excluding the Israeli climber) and that some of us might not make it to the summit..*gulp*.

After a tiring trek up, we were rather disappointed to find our ice wall melting under the sun. While we had a chance to ice-climb with technical ice-axes, we did not get to practice how to do self-arrest (a method to stop sliding down an ice slope and recover from the fall) given the limited area.

Yew Choon

Kin Peng

Yew Hoong

Lester

Agnes

Kin Peng belaying

Ater a cold session, we headed down the ice wall to have a bowl of nice hot instant noodle cooked by ND. It was the first time we tasted this Wy-Wy instant noodle brand and we practically fell in love with it.

The return journey was a pretty scary experience. By 4.00pm, fog started to blanket the journey down and visibility became very low of less than 15m. There were several occasions Agnes lost sight of the person she was trailing and had to wait for PK, who was the last man, to give directions. We were all tired and cold, and the last thing we wanted was to get lost or wander onto the wrong trail.

Index Page / Day 12: Chhukhung to Island Peak Base Camp

Day 10: Ice Climbing Course @ Chhukhung (Part 1)

2009-04-18T23:09:00.000-07:00

Log No: 18-04-09
Not recorded

Timing:
0900hrs - Left for a slope face for training
1200hrs - Arrived at Chhukhung's Resort for lunch
1345hrs - Left for acclimatization climb up Chhukhung Ri
1545hrs - Arrived closed to Chhukhung Ri (5233m) - Lester and Yew Choon
1600hrs - Arrived closed to Chhukhung Ri (5313m) - Agnes and Yew Hoong
1635hrs - Arrived back at Chhukhung's Resort - Lester and Yew Choon
1645hrs - Arrived back at Chhukhung's Resort - Agnes and Yew Hoong

In the morning, ND and PK took us on a short 10mins stroll to a slope face to get some hands-on practice on jumaring and abseiling. During the 3 hours, we learnt how to use a jumar and abseil using a Figure-8 and Italian hitch. We also committed the safety procedures to memory. While most of us had some form experience in the ropeworks and abseiling, none were complacent and took the training seriously. Any mistake in the knots, safety procedures or use of equipment will be deadly on the mountain. Not only will we endanger ourselves but also put our teammates at risks. The margin of error is zero. We have heard and read enough to know it.

Yew Choon preparing to abseil down

Kin Peng abseiling down smoothly

That afternoon, we took the opportunity to climb Chhukhung Ri which stands higher than Island Peak Base Camp. Kin Peng was worried that the climb would aggreviate her injured knee and so decided not to go for the climb.

Since ND and PK were not going to bring us up to Chhukhung Ri, Furba decided to lead us up out of goodwill. After 2hrs, we realised that it wasn't really possible to reach the summit of Chhukhung Ri by 4.00pm. Moreover, the trail shown on the map ends before the summit. This means that we had to figure a way to climb up the rock face of the Ri.

Yew Choon and I decided to stop at 3.45pm at 5233m and head back. Agnes and Yew Hoong who wanted to press on to the end of the trail (as shown on the map) went on for another 15mins with Furba.

By 4.35pm, Yew Choon and I arrived back at Chhukhung's Resort and was warmly greeted by Kin Peng. By that time, the clouds were coming in swiftly and we started to get worried for Yew Hoong and Agnes who were still on the way down. Thankfully, they arrived safely very shortly after us.

Index Page / Day 11: Ice Climbing Course Chhukhung (Part 2)

Day 9: Dingboche to Chhukhung

2009-04-17T23:08:00.000-07:00

Log No: 17-04-09
Trekking Distance: 3.5km
Trekking Time: 2hrs

Timing:
0930hrs - Left Dingboche's (4410m) Hotel Family
1130hrs - Arrived at Chhukhung's (4730m) Chhukhung Resort & Restaurant

For once, we did not have to wake up at 5.30am or earlier. Furba had decided that breakfast would be served at 8.30am since Chhukhung wasn't too far away.

The trek to Chhukhung from Dingboche was relatively easy given the Nepali-flat terrain. Within 2 hrs, we arrived at Chhukhung and had a good lunch. Our appetites were coming back, possibly due to the descent to lower altitude.

Island Peak sticking out in the background

Chhukhung's resort in the centre and and Island peak at the top right

In the afternoon, Furba introduced us to our climbing sherpas - Ngima Dawa Sherpa (ND) and Pasang Kaji Sherpa (PK) and with their help we checked our equipment. Thereafter, ND went through the required knots with us (clove hitch, italian hitch, bowline, alpine butterfly, fisherman knot, etc). He was kinda impressed that we came prepared knowing most of the knots -- we are (were) Scouts okay!

Trying on our plastic boots and crampons

ND and PK helping us with our harness and other equipment

We also met up with Kamel, an Israeli individual (a soldier for 5 years) who would be joining us for the climb up Island Peak.

Our ritual for a safe climb

Tomorrow, we will start on our ice-climbing training.

Index Page / Day 10: Ice Climbing Course @ Chhukhung (Part 1)

Day 8: Acclimatization Climb to Kalapatthar then to Dingboche

2009-04-16T23:06:00.000-07:00

Log No: 16-04-09
Trekking Distance: 16.1km
Trekking Time: 7hr 50mins

Timing:
0440hrs - Left Gorak Shep (5140m)
0645hrs - Summit Kalapatthar (5545m)
0710hrs - Left Kalapatthar
0810hrs - Arrive back at Gorak Shep (5140m)'s Yeti Resort
0940hrs - Left Gorak Shep
1125hrs - Arrive at Lobuche (4910m)
1255hrs - Arrive at Dughla (4260m) for lunch
1345hrs - Left Dughla
1515hrs - Arrive at Dingboche (4410m)'s Hotel Family

We woke at 3.30am and prepared for breakfast at 4.00am. The morning was cold and our bodies were rejecting food at such high altitude. But still we had to eat for the much required energy.

At 4.40am, we switched on our head lamps, strapped on our gloves and headed off into the dark to climb Kalapatthar. It wasn't very windy but the low temperature started to make my toes freeze numb. The slope up was generally steep and we had to zig-zag our way up to the summit. Towards the top, the path was filled with rocks and boulders making us the climb cumbersome.

Halfway through, Agnes and Yew Choon were trailing behind. Due to the cold and exertion from the previous day's trek to EBC, Agnes and Yew Choon decided to turn around at 6.15am and 6.45am respectively. Along the way down, Agnes was shivering in cold and Sonam had to constantly rub her hands to generate heat. She was disappointed and upset with herself for not being able to summit Kalapatthar.

Along the way, several other climbers overtook us. I tried to catch up with them but was just too slow. After a while, I gave up - after all, it wasn't a competition. The view along the way was great especially watching the sun rise from behind Everest. Finally at 6.55am, I arrived at the summit 10 mins after Kin Peng.

At the summit with Pumori (7165m) in the background

Morning sun rising behind Everest (8850m)

View from summit

Back at Gorak Shep, we had toast and jam before heading for Dingboche. Descending was always way easier and so the 700m downwards (there were ups too) trek was reasonably comfortable. Agnes, who had an extra hour of sleep after turning back from the Kalapatthar climb, was visibly recharged and was blazing the trail downwards.

After Dughla, the trek to Dingboche was quite enjoyable. The view was great and the trek was Nepali flat-flat-flat. As we trekked, we could peer down at Pheriche.

Dingboche just below...

At Dingboche, we had the worst hot shower. The boiling water was trickling down little by little from the shower cap making bathing difficult. Worst off all, it cost us SGD$7.00 each!

With so much downwards trekking, our knee cap hurt quietly. It was only when I squatted down to poo poo that I heard my knee cap grinded. I had to grip the side of the wooden toilet to pull myself up when done. Kin Peng was smarter. She brought in her walking stick to help her stand :-)

Index Page / Day 9: Dingboche to Chhukhung

Day 7: Lobuche to Gorak Shep to Everest Base Camp (EBC)

2009-04-15T23:05:00.000-07:00

Log No: 15-04-09
Trekking Distance: 9.8 km
Trekking Time: 10hrs 25mins

Timing:
0725hrs - Left Lobuche (4910m)
1015hrs:1055hrs - Arrive at Gorak Shep (5140m)'s Yeti Resort for Lunch
1145hrs - Left Gorak Shep
1500hrs:1540hrs - Arrive at Everest Base Camp (5380m)
1545hrs - Left Everest Base Camp
1745hrs - Arrive back at Gorek Shep's Yeti Resort

The trek to Gorak Shep was generally uphill of over 200m ascent. Upon arrival, we had approximately 50mins to check-in to our room, grab our necessities for the EBC trail and have a quick lunch. None of us really had any appetite and were glad that lunch was just a small bowl of garlic noodle soup.

Agnes making her way up to Gorak Shep

By 11.40am, Yew Hoong signaled for us to start our EBC trek fearing that we might return too late. Usually after 5.00pm, the weather would turn very cold and clouds would swop in making visibility low. It was definitely not the best time to trek.

After lunch, I wasn't exactly feeling in the best of shape. My pulse was fairly rapid and so I took it slow. Real slow..very slow till Furba started yawning as he accompanied me -.-

Sonam and another porter (who carried a hot flask of water) had led the team ahead of me. It was a winding up and down trail along the edge and ridge of the mountain. As time went by, each step I took was like lifting a 50kg weight. The all familiar dizzy spell hit me once more and I had to sit down very frequently just to catch my breath. Breathing was difficult especially when I have respiratory issues. Moreoever, oxygen rate at 5000m is only 53%. In my head, I was chanting a Buddhish prayer to distract the pain.

Yew Choon like me was also praying. He was seeking blessing from Sagarmatha (Everest) to open her arms and welcome him to Everest Base Camp. Everyone had their way of keeping their mind off the tiring ascend and descend.

By 1.00pm Furba was asking if I wanted to turn back. He probably felt that I was too unwell and weak to continue. I asked him if I could reach by 3.00pm at this slow pace. He said, "yes". And so I pressed on giving myself short term goals to accomplish. EBC was in view but it was "so near yet so far". At some point, I was so disappointed with my performance that I nearly cried.

I kept pushing myself till I was about 100m away from the down slope that led to EBC. It was 2.10pm. I knew that I would not make it to EBC by 3.00pm. Even if I headed down the slope and glacier successfully, I might not have enough energy to climb back up and trek back to Gorak Shep by nightfall. Disappointed, I told Furba that I would stop and head back. I did not want to risk the acclimatization climb to Kalapatthar the next morning and Island Peak in the next few days. After Furba took some photos of me with EBC and Everest in the background, I told him to re-group with the rest. Once he left, I found a safe spot and took a good nap for 20mins. At 2.30pm I headed down alone thinking that Furba will send Sonam after me.

Everest Base Camp in the background
. . .

Meanwhile, Yew Hoong, Kin Peng, Yew Choon and Agnes arrived at the Singapore Women Everest Team (SWET) tentage at different timings. The SWET team had headed up for Everest Camp I and were not around. But they were equally pleased to be greeted by Mr Lim Kim Boon, the women's coach and Base Camp Manager. In SWET website updates dated 24th April 2009, our 4 SUAGU members' names were listed as guest visitors!

At Everest Base Camp

Singapore Women Everest Team

Yew Hoong and Kin Peng with the Singapore Women Everest Team's Base Camp Manager (in orange vest)

After a series of photo shots, Yew Hoong hurried the team along as night was approaching. At 3.45pm, they headed back to Gorak Shep. It was this return trip that triggered a relapse of Kin Peng's knee injury.
. . .

By 4.00pm, I started to wonder if I was lost on the mountains. Sonam never came. Damn! I was certain that I was on the right trail given the footprints, trashs and yak dunks. But for the last 30mins, I saw no human going towards or back from EBC. Could I have taken the long way? There was an initial panic. Again, I prayed for guidance and soon enough at 4.15pm, I saw 2 Sherpas coming my way. *phew*

The remaining team arrived back at 5.45pm with the sun fast setting. Thankfully the weather was good and it did not snow.

*Rin decided to trek to break away from the group and trek to EBC the next day.

Index Page / Day 8: Acclimatization Climb to Kalapatthar then to Dingboche

Day 6: Pheriche to Lobuche

2009-04-14T23:01:00.000-07:00

Log No: 14-04-09
Trekking Distance: 6.7 km
Trekking Time: 4hrs 45mins

Timing:
0735hrs - Left Pheriche (4270m)
0955hrs:1020hrs - Arrived at Dughla (4260m)'s Yak Lodge and Restaurant
1115hrs - Left Dughla
1315hrs - Arrived at Lobuche's (4910m) Sherpa Lodge

At 6.30am, Sonam carried our Island Peak equipment weighing approximately 20kg to Dingboche so that we can pick it up when we returned from EBC. It took him a mere 30mins to hike up 140m with such a heavy load before dashing down to Dughla by 8.30am. His 1.5hrs hike down included a good portion of the time spent chatting with friends in Dingboche. For us, we struggled for 2hrs 25mins before reaching Duglha for lunch.

Morning view ... Lunch at Dughla

Lunch at Dughla

The trek after lunch was a killer. Yew Hoong and Kin Peng sped ahead up the steep slope. I tried to catch up but only fell behind further and further over time. Each step was a both a mental and physical torture. After every few steps I had to stop to catch my breath before carrying on. The hot sun did not help a single bit. Yew Choon was also having problems with the slope. He was having dizzy spells and so he went slow, stopping each time he experienced a flash black out.

By the time we reached Lobuche, everybody was experiencing slight headache. Agnes had also vomitted along the way.

Not too long later, it started to snow. It will be a cold night.

Index Page / Day 7: Lobuche to Gorak Shep to Everest Base Camp (EBC)

Day 5: Tengboche to Pheriche

2009-04-13T23:00:00.000-07:00

Log No: 13-04-09
Trekking Distance: 9.3 km
Trekking Time: 3hr 55min

Timing:
0720hrs - Left Tengboche (3860m)
0900hrs - Went by Pangboche (3930m)
1000hrs - Arrived at Shomare's Trekkers Lodge for Lunch
1115hrs - Left Shomare (4010m)
1300hrs - Arrived at Pheriche (4270m)
1330hrs - Arrived at Pheriche's Himalayan Lodge

The night before, Yew Hoong had a discussion with Furba and decided to change our route to Pheriche instead of Dingboche.

That morning, we woke to the sounding of the horns from Tengboche Monastery. Everyone was in good spirits. As we trekked, Furba taught us a local traditional song which was about how life is like mountainous Nepal, sometimes up and sometimes down. We then sang many other songs ranging from our school songs to National Day songs and chinese pop songs. Somehow, we stopped singing as we approached the uphills :-)

When we arrived at Pheriche, we were pleased to find ourselves housed in the brand new Himalayan Lodge. We decided to reward ourselves with a hot shower that cost us RS300 which was around SGD$6.00! Things just get more expensive as we approach higher grounds.

At 3.00pm, we headed towards the Himalayan Rescue Association Nepal - Pheriche Aid-post for a lesson on Acute Mountain Sickness and other high altitude sickness like HAPE and HACE conducted by Dr Madeleine.

Photo with HRA's Dr Madeleine

We then paid RS$200 each to have our vital signs checked. Everyone was generally okay though Agnes's blood pressure seemed rather low (she said that her pressure is generally low even at sea-level) and Yew Choon's blood-oxygen concentration was low.

Index Page / Day 6: Pheriche to Lobuche

Day 4: Namche Bazar to Tengboche

2009-04-12T23:58:00.000-07:00

Log No: 12-04-09
Trekking Distance: 7.2 km
Trekking Time: 5hrs 15mins

Timing:
0725hrs - Left Namche Bazar (3425m)
1000hrs - Arrived at Phunki Tenga (3250m) for Lunch
1115hrs - Left Phunki Tenga
1345hrs - Arrived at Tengboche (3860m)

The first part of the journey was what we call Nepali-Flat - gentle sloping, sometimes upwards and sometimes downwards. We trekked along the edge of the mountains under the blazing sun with our face mostly covered to prevent sunburn and breathing in the nasty dust. Initially there were nice snowy mountains to look out for but after a while it just turned 2 hours of monotonous trekking.

Trekking along the edge of the mountains

Lunch point

Tengboche was a small town but has a very important Buddhist monastery that is headed by an abbot (Tengboche Rinpoche) who is regarded as the second highest monk in the Khumbu region.

Tengboche Monastery

Our Himalayan View Lodge

View from our lodge

At 4.00pm, Yew Hoong, Yew Choon, Rin and I attended their chanting ceremony that lasted for 2hours.

Inside the Monastery

Our daily ritual - Big 2

Index Page / Day 5: Tengboche to Pheriche

Day 3: Acclimazation @ Namche Bazar

2009-04-11T23:55:00.001-07:00

Log No: 11-04-09
Trekking Distance: 5.70km (To and fro Hillary school)
Trekking Time: XXhrs

Timing:
0720hrs - Left for Everest View Hotel
1000hrs - Arrived at Everest View Hotel for tea
1035hrs - Left for Sir Edmund Hillary School (Agnes, Kin, Yew Choon and Rin)
1035hrs - Returned to Himalayan Lodge (Yew Hoong and Lester)
1145hrs - Arrived at Himalayan Lodge (Yew Hoong and Lester)
xxxxhrs - Arrived at Himalayan Lodge (Agnes, Kin, Yew Choon and Rin)

I broke into cold sweat at 11.00pm of 10/4/09. Tummy-ache. I urgently needed to go to the toilet but at over 3400m, it was difficult to move around fast. My head was spinning as I fumbled for my headlamp and toilet paper. I stumbled pass the walkway and trod down the steep stairs to reach the toilet.

Done!

I looked at the stairs and started cursing and swearing. By the time I finished climbing the 10-over steps, I was panting heavily as if I had completed a 2.4km run. Worst of all, my head never stopped pounding.

I collapsed back onto bed feeling cold. 10mins later I was no longer panting but the horrible diarrhea feeling came back. I did the same ritual but cursed and swore more. My head continued to spin and pounded even more. As I stumbled back into the room, Kin Peng who was sharing the same room with me was awoken by my clumsiness. I never stopped shivering. Kin applied medicated oil over my back to keep me warm. After 20mins of shivering, I finally fell alseep but not for long..there was a third time -.-

The next morning, I was very weak but I still decided to push for the acclimatization climb. After breakfast, I felt a boost of energy thinking that I had regained the energy that had drained off from the diarrhea.

Felt like hell...

I was wrong. The 2hrs 40mins climb was a painful experience. I was dizzy and my heart was pumping rapidly making breathing difficult. After every 10-20 steps or so, I had to stop (ocassionally sit) and rest.

Along the way, we saw many mountains with big names such as Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and Amadablam.

Everest on the far left

At Everest View Hotel, Yew Hoong and I decided not to go to Sir Edmund Hillary School which was around an hour away. Yew Hoong too wasn't feeling very well, possibly due to the high altitude. While the rest proceeded to visit the school, both of us headed back down to rest.

Visiting the Sir Edmund Hillary School (with his statue in the background)

Back at the lodge, Yew Hoong and I felt better. We napped in the dining area for a short while before heading back to our room for a better rest.

When the rest of the team came back, Furba bought me to see a Tibetan doctor for my diarrhea. I needed to recover fast otherwise the remaining journey would be torturous. The doctor diagnosed me with food poisoning, possibly from the Yak Sizzler, and gave me some medications. No more meat for me for the rest of the trek! Thereafter, Agnes was coerced into seeking treatment for her super bad constipation (the total opposite of my case) while Yew Choon decided to check his aching leg.

Once we were done seeing the doctor, Furba brought us to town to rent our plastic boots.

Tomorrow, we head for Tengboche.

Index Page / Day 4: Namche Bazar to Tengboche

Day 2: Phakding to Namche Bazar

2009-04-10T23:16:00.000-07:00

Log No: 10-04-09
Trekking Distance: 9.4km
Trekking Time: 5hrs 55mins

Timing:
0710hrs - Left Phakding's Nameste Lodge (2637m)
0955hrs - Arrived at Josale's River View Terrace Rest. (2714m) for Lunch
1110hrs - Left Josale
1400hrs - Arrived at Namche Bazar
1420hrs - Arrived at Namche Bazar's Himalayan Lodge (3425m)

We work up at around 5.30am and packed our bags. Breakfast was served at around 6.30am and by 7.10am, we started Day Two towards Namche Bazar. The first part of the trek was relatively comfortable, mainly gentle slopes. The valley view was beautiful though the river was not gushing as magnificantly as I had wished - It wasn't the raining season.

Morning view from Nameste Lodge

At 9.30am, we arrived at the Sagarmatha National Park for registration. According to their tabulations, there were over 4661 trekkers in this region in April 2008 and over 9260 in October 2008. This is how popular the Everest Region is.

After lunch at Josale, we continued on the 2nd part of the trek. After crossing a massive bridge, our passage up slope was blocked by a large herd of Yaks. It became "painful" having to trek so slowly behind them and so we decided to "jump queue". Once the window of opportunity opened, we skillfully squeezed through the yaks while avoiding being rammed by their powerful horns.

I was glad when Furba told us that we have reached Namche Bazar. I was dead tired after ascending the steep and never ending slope that took us 2hrs to complete. But to my shocking surprise, our lodge was located on the upper terrace of Namche! It took me another 20mins to climb flights of stairs before finally settling down into our lodge at 3425m.

Namche Bazar

After a hot shower, we headed into the streets of Namche to rent our down sleeping bags and down jackets.

That night we were rewarded with Yak Sizzler meal. Yummy...but....

Index Page / Day 3: Acclimazation Namche Bazar

Day 1: Lukla to Phadking

2009-04-09T23:59:00.000-07:00

Log No: 09-04-09
Trekking Distance: 6.3km
Trekking Time: 2hrs 50mins

Timing:
0640hrs - Arrived at Kathmandu Domestic Airport
0755hrs - Left for Lukla (2840m)
0840hrs - Arrived at Lukla Tenzing-Hillary Airport and prepared
0955hrs - Started trekking towards Phakding
1245hrs - Arrived at Nameste Lodge in Phakding (2610m)

Furba and Sonam came around in the early morning to fetch us to the Domestic Airport. The car ride took around 30mins include the morning traffic jam.

At the airport, I was worried that my duffle bag would exceed the 15kg limit. Well, it did but thankfully Yew Choon did not bring much stuff and so I managed to squeeze through.

Check-in at Kathmandu's Domestic Airport

At about 7.40am we boarded a shuttle bus that brought us to our Yeti Airlines Twin Otter (propeller engines) plane. Just last year Oct 2008, one of the Twin Otter from Yeti crashed into the Lukla Tenzing-Hillary Airport* killing 18 people, leaving the Pilot badly injured. According to news clips the plane was approaching the airport when a fog suddenly enveloped the runnway, leading to the crash. Fated to die I think. I prayed - I rather die gloriously trying to summit then die on a freaking propeller-engine plane!

Super squeezy that I was worried being clastrophobic

Halfway through the flight, Furba pointed out his home to us. It was located on the top of a hill (anything under 5000m is considered a hill in Nepal..WTF! I was climbing hills in Malaysia all along?!?). He said he would have to take a bus and then walk 1.5 days before reaching home -.-

When we landed, Furba clapped his hands saying that it was very rare for such a smooth sailing flight without any turbulences. My prayers were heard :-)

Arriving safely at Lukla with our plane in the background

Small scale airport

Short (527m) runway

Upon arrival, we got ready while our guides had their breakfast. At 9.55am, we officially started trekking and to our great welcome, it started to rain at 11.00am. Furba said that the Gods were teasing us as it was not the raining season. Along the way, we witnessed the amazing strength of the mountain people. Like a friend once said, these people are a different breed of men.

OMG! Metal pipings...

By 12.45pm, we arrived at Nameste Lodge (the same lodge that Yew Hoong stayed in 2 years ago). After lunch, we hanged out in one of the bedrooms massaging each other before heading down to the dining area for tea. There, we played Jenga. Our high-level of excitment, ie. noisiness, during the game drew many audiences. The stake was high. Ten star-jumps in the open at 2637m! Even the lodge's lady boss was all excited to play with us. Furba and Yew Choon were the losers and they graciously accepted the forfeit. Then, we decided to call for an International Competition. We asked if anyone from the other tables wanted to challenge. Two others (cannot remember where they were from) came forward and challenged Singapore's Kin Peng, Malaysia's Agnes & Yew Choon and Nepal's Furba and Sonam. Sonam lost and did 5 squats as forfeit.

International competitors

After dinner, we retired into our rooms, took temperature before calling it a day. Day One over!

*Lukla Tenzing-Hillary Airport is a small airport in the town of Lukla in Khumbu. It's runway is a mere 527m.

Index Page / Day 2: Phakding to Namche Bazar

Day 0: 2nd day in Kathmandu

2009-04-08T23:59:00.000-07:00

Log No: 08-04-09
Not recorded

For the morning and early afternoon, we split up to do our own shopping and sightseeing around Thamel. Kin and Agnes had a cup of tea and their favorite chapatti at a makeshift tea-place frequented by locals and not the regular tourists.

At 4.00pm, we gathered back at Equator Expeditions for our briefing with our Guide Ang Furba Sherpa (26 yrs old) and his assistant Sonam Sherpa (21 yrs old).

Our Assistant Guide Sonam and main Guide Furba

Furba is a humourous and fun-loving Guide who speaks pretty good English. Turns out, he has been a Guide for over 5years handling mainly trekkers from UK. He started off as a kitchen chef attached to trekking groups and learnt the ropes over the years to become a full-fledged guide for the Everest and Annapurna Trekking regions. During the non-trekking seasons, he is busy volunteering with some Spanish donors to repair a primary school in his hometown.

Sonam was our Assistant Guide. This would be his fourth trip understudying Furba. He was usually assigned the role as the "last man", making sure that all of us arrived at the destination safely. Unlike Furba, he spoke little English. So there weren't much conversations between us during the earlier part of the trip, other than him shouting for us in Nepali when we went off-trail or when danger laid ahead. It was only towards the later part when the ice was broken and we had more conversations. It was tough understanding him though, but we managed - okay not always.

Index Page / Day 1: Lukla to Phadking

Departure Day: Singapore Changi Airport

2009-04-07T05:45:00.000-07:00

I remembered having our very first meeting in Jan 2008 to discuss who should be in the team. Many of us, including myself, were unsure if we would be able to participate. There were concerns about having to take long leave, level of diffculty, etc. The day finally arrived...

Log No: 07-04-09
Flight number (Thai Air): TG402-TG319
Departure Singapore: 0800hrs
Arrival Bangkok (Transit): 0855hrs
Departure Bangkok: 1035hrs
Arrival Kathmandu: 1245hrs

The team gathered at Changi Airport Terminal One at 5.45am waiting to check-in. We did not really talk much other than some small discussions as to what should we do when we arrive in Kathmandu. Deep down everybody knew that "this is it...the time has come"

Our flight went well, less the cloudy sky that blocked a fair bit of the Himalayan range when we peered through the window.

At Bangkok Airport

We arrived at Kathmandu at 12.35pm (KTM) and waited for over 40mins before our duffle bags showed up on the conveyor belt. As we stepped out of the airport, our Nepali Scout friend Naresh was there to greet us with kata scarves. ACME guesthouse had also sent a driver to pick us up from the airport. And when we approached our van, several Nepali came forward offering to carry our bags up the van. Of course, they wanted tips and so I conveniently pointed at Yew Hoong and asked them to get the tips from him :-)

Waiting at Kathmandu Airport ...Wearing the Kata scarves from Naresh

ACME guesthouse is located in Thamel, the heart of Kathmandu for tourists, where the streets are filled outdoor adventure companies and shops that sell trekking equipments, food and souvenirs (tea, handicrafts and embroidery).

Thamel street (and also the rest of Kathmandu) is always dusty and we had to resort to wearing our face mask and buff to prevent ourselves from developing any cough that will only aggravate when we gain higher altitude during the trek*. I was particularly vulnerable as I had developed an infection just before the trip, making me cough non-stop. I had to make sure that the coughing does not get worst in Kathmandu.

Once we dropped our bags in the guesthouse, we headed straight to Equator Expeditions, the trekking company that we engaged to guide us to Everest Base Camp, Kalapatthar and Island Peak, for the first briefing and payment.

Briefing at Equator Expeditions

Once the briefing ended, we left immediately to buy our trekking stuff such as lightweight pants, long sleeve tshirts, fleece pants gloves, sleeping bag liners, etc. The rush was necessary because of our dinner appointment hosted by Naresh's parents at their home.

Naresh's father, Naresh, Naresh's wife and me

*From basecampmd.com: The relative humidity at high altitude is extraordinarily low, and almost invariably irritates the respiratory tract. The result is the infamous “Khumbu cough”, which can be serious enough to cause a person to cough hard enough to break a rib.

Index Page / Day 0: 2nd day in Kathmandu

Route Map

2009-01-16T00:31:00.000-08:00

Our route map ....